Simplicity isn’t always the easiest thing to achieve, and Los Angeles based designer Grace Lee knows this well. With no formal training in jewelry design, Grace started in 2008 with a vision for rings that were so simple that they just weren’t on the market. Her barely-there pieces often feature intricate, careful designs, sometimes so small that they’re almost impossible to make. Grace had the chance to chat with us in her LA studio, where we talked about her process and photographed her workspace.
How long have you been making jewelry for, and why were you drawn to jewelry design?
I began in finance and left when I was pregnant my first daughter, Olivia, seven years ago, which would’ve been in 2008. I’ve always liked jewelry, and friends were asking me to design their wedding and engagement rings. One of my offices was 2 blocks from LA’s Jewelry District, so I started visiting and met a lot of people in the industry. That’s where I got my start.
What is your main source of inspiration for coming up with new designs?
I have two kids and I’m so busy, so my husband and I don’t take tons of extravagant trips to relax and find inspiration. Most of my inspiration comes from everyday experiences. I might think of something while driving or taking a walk and decide to develop it. I find a lot of enjoyment in taking a design and altering it to make it work to function.
Can you tell us about some of the first pieces you designed?
One day, I decided I would design a few pieces for myself. I went with my daughter Olivia in her stroller and designed a handful of pieces: the Wide Hammer Ring, the Cuff, the Whisper Ring, and the Thin Hammer Ring. I wanted simple pieces like these to wear because I couldn’t find anything like them on the market. The first day I wore them out, people wanted to buy them, so started making more of them.
Your Whisper Ring continues to be one of your most striking pieces with it’s impossibly thin form. How did you come up with this idea?
My body was changing so much during my pregnancy — it was a big change. Then, I had a newborn, so I was washing my hands a lot and was so busy. I wanted to wear a piece of jewelry that made me feel like I was wearing something, but it was barely there, so I made the Whisper Ring. I’m so particular, and even .001mm can really make a difference, so we went through lots of methods to pull the gold so it would be thin enough for the right effect but thick enough to not bend too much or break. If we just printed it from a file, it would be too weak, so we hand-make these. Beating the gold with a hammer strengthens the body, which is essential when it’s so thin.
Did this idea inspire other pieces in your line?
Yes. Later, we made the Cuff, which is also super thin. I wanted something like the Whisper Ring for my wrist, but I also wanted it to be fitted so I could keep it on without it jingling around. This is one of those pieces that we worked to make with function in mind. Now, the Stick Eternity Bracelet is a version of that where we can add on and customize, or just leave plain and simple.
What was it like to start your line?
When I started, production questioned me — a lot. They thought no one was going to buy my ideas, since there was nothing that simple or delicate around when I started. When I asked them to make something thinner or create a really intricate design, they thought I was crazy, and often denied the possibility. We still work to make pieces that push that sort of limit.
How do you go about working on particular pieces?
Depending on what the final product needs to be, we’ll do what it takes to get there. Since I don’t have formal training in jewelry making, I work backwards. I find out what I want it to look like and, from there, we figure out what we have to do to make it.
Your intricate Lace Rings are some of your most striking and unique pieces. How did you come up with this concept?
I’ve always had a thing for lace, so I bought all these samples of lace and made tons of sketches, then made prototypes. I always just take pencil to graph paper. Depending on how intricate the detail is, it will go into CAD (computer- aided drafting) or we’ll cut the mold by hand. It just depends on how intricate the design is. I’m really particular about angles, too. The Hammer Rings and more organic designs are actually cut into rubber to get the individual, varied effect
When you come up with an idea, what is the best form you have for keeping it?
I retain my ideas with sketches. Most of my ideas come just as I’m going about my day, so I make a point to sketch them out from pencil to graph paper. I always start with this moment of jotting down what comes to mind.
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Photos by: Ulysses Ortega | Copy by: Abbey Abate